Like all of my trips, this one started early on a Saturday morning. We took a bus to the border town of Poi Pet. The ride was uneventful and completely not worth talking about. Poi Pet, though, was an experience. First of all, it was the first time in my life that I have ever walked across a border. How crazy is that? They drove us to customs, we got out, walked through, and then got on another bus. Poi Pet was a dirty town. I was appalled at the conditions when I first saw it as I have never seen poverty like that. It didn’t seem quite as bad on the way back.
I made my second mistake of the trip in Poi Pet. I exchanged money there. I had read on the internet that it is difficult to exchange money in the interior of the country, and the guy who was guiding us recommended it. Can’t imagine why he would do that. I was far too trusting as a result of my last package trip. It was absolutely flawless, and the people along the way bent over backward to make sure I had a good time. I should have realized that a guy who ferries tourists across a border for a living wouldn’t care too much about the quality of my experience. I didn’t exchange much though, so it wasn’t a big deal.
We go incredibly lucky in Poi Pet on the other hand though. They gave us a car and driver to take us to our final destination, Siem Reap. The road to Siem Reap was dirt, and when I say road, I mean path. I’ve driven across smoother fields. There were pot holes in this thing that could easily eat a car. Along the way, I kept seeing kids selling a brownish liquid in old coke and pepsi bottles. I had no idea what it was, but someone informed me that it was gas. It was something I had never seen before.
Before we left Poi Pet, the driver stopped at a shop to get his car repaired. I have no idea why he didn’t do this before we got in the car, but we weren’t there for long. There was a fairly small crack in his windshield, and he wanted to get it repaired. A guy comes out of the shop, and traces the crack on another piece of glass with a marker. He goes away for a while, and then he comes back with a crudely cut piece of glass. He attached it over the crack with an epoxy and some tape. It wasn’t exactly the type of fix you would see at home.
We got to Siem Reap at night after a bouncy ride in the car. Our hotel was pretty nice, but there was a problem. They had little idea what was included in our package. We bought this package from a travel agent in Bangkok, and this guy had sent the hotel the shortest email in history to inform them of our arrival. They had no idea what was covered, and we really didn’t either. It was a bad idea to book a package, but I had no idea what kind of infrastructure to expect in Cambodia. It’s not like I was traveling to Western Europe or something. The hotel was quite modern though, and they had loads of tours you could take. It would have been much easier and somewhat cheaper to have booked the tours there. We pretty much had to haggle with the hotel for everything, and I felt bad doing it because they will probably have to pay for some of it out of pocket. I have come to the conclusion that package deals from Bangkok are only useful if the destination is both popular and near the city. The Kanchanaburi trip was amazing, but the destination was extremely popular as well. The guides knew exactly where we were going and when, and they went out of their way to make us comfortable because they wanted us to recommend business to them. Plus, we saw a load of stuff on the way there. It would have been impossible to have taken a bus to Kanchanaburi and booked the tours there. Half of the trip was over before we got there.
Anyway, Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples were just stunning. My favorite places were the spots where giant trees had grown up over the walls of the temple. It looked amazing to see this roots jutting down the sides of 800 year old ruins. I think the pictures speak for these scenes better than I can.
One other cool spot was a room where you could stand against a wall, hit your chest, and hear it echo through the room. It was supposed to be good luck to do so. It reminded me of those whispering chambers where you can whisper across a big room due to the acoustics.
All of the temples were originally Hindu, but were then converted to Buddhism later. Therefore, they had signs of both religions. It was cool to see the ancient carvings and symbols.
One of my favorite parts of the trip was the freedom we enjoyed. They let the tourists explore these old temple ruins with little to no guidance. It was so amazing to crawl over these piles of rubble in a secluded temple in the jungle. It felt as though we were the first people to be there in hundreds of years. It was so nice not to have people worrying over my safety all the time as well. If I wanted to scale the steep steps up the side of a temple, I could. Most of them didn’t even have hand rails, but no one cared. I loved that.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat was also a pretty amazing experience. The sun peaked over this stunning temple, bathing it with gorgeous light. It was definitely worth getting out of bed early for.
For the first day, we had a tour guide showing us around Angkor Wat and some of the surrounding temples. This was actually the most frustrating part of the package deal. We were assured we would have a tour guide, but we had to pay extra. However, the guide was well worth the money. He was extremely friendly and knowledgeable. This guy had fled Cambodia in 1979 because of the communist Khmer Rouge regime. He grew up in a refuge camp in Thailand, and he could speak fluent English, Khmer, and Thai. The man was simply a joy to be around for the day. We became quite friendly with him, and by the end of the day, it was though he was just one of the group. Of course, I had known him for nearly as long as some of my other traveling companions so that’s not entirely surprising.
Due to the poverty of Cambodia, the tour guide was fairly cheap, $25/day. Between the four of us, we had 2 tuk-tuk drivers as well, meaning we had three people working for us for a day. All of this cost a total of $50. It is really nice to get the kind of service for that kind of cost, but I felt somewhat guilty about it. I really felt as though I should be paying those guys more, and we did tip them. On the other hand, providing them jobs and contributing their economy will help drive their salaries up. The more demand, the higher the price.
All around the temples, there were children peddling souvenirs, food, and drinks. These kids were extremely persistent. They would swarm you and try to get you to buy their stuff. Everything was a dollar. “Mister, mister, you buy big water. Only a dollar.” That sort of thing. They were very good salesmen as well. They would ask you where you were from, and then spout off random facts about the country. “Oh, you from America. Capital is Washington DC. Population is 300 million. President is George Bush. What state are you from?” They didn’t know the capital of Illinois, but they all asked me. I mostly just ignored these children, and some had funny responses to that. “Can’t you hear me? Oh, you must be very drunk. It is very early in the morning to be so drunk!” It was fairly common for them to compliment you as well. “Oh, you are very handsome. Would you like to buy a T-shirt?” The kids were all much older than they looked, at least, if you assume they were accurate when they gave their age. Perhaps they were malnourished and not growing quickly enough.
The food in Cambodia was amazing. They had good, French bread everywhere. I miss good bread a lot in Thailand, and it was nice to have some again. I assume that they had such good bread because of the French colonization. Some Cambodian dishes I tried were Amoc fish, which was similar to a curry, Loklak, which was stir fried beef in a gravy with a fried egg, and Marango Chicken, which was chicken in a brown gravy. All were very good.
The trip back to Bangkok was difficult. We took a bus back to Poi Pet this time, so it was a much more difficult ride. I was in Poi Pet for 2.5 hours because we had to wait for a coach bus to fill up. That was frustrating because we got there just when the previous bus filled. Budget traveling is filled with these moments.
All in all, I had a great time. I know it doesn’t sound like it from these comments, but it was simply amazing. Angkor was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been, and it is always nice to experience another country.